SkinPen › The Science
Explore the Science

SkinPen, in depth.

SkinPen is the first FDA-cleared microneedling device — fine needles that switch on your skin's own collagen-building repair cascade. Explore how it works, who it suits, and how to prepare and recover.

The concerns

What SkinPen treats

SkinPen is the first FDA-cleared microneedling device, cleared again for neck wrinkles in 2021. Fine needles create precise micro-channels that switch on the skin's own three-phase repair cascade — here is the science behind every concern it addresses.

Acne Scarring

Strong evidence

The pivotal trial: 90% improvement at six months

SkinPen is the only microneedling device cleared by the FDA specifically for acne scarring, backed by a multicentre pivotal trial showing 90% of patients rated their scars improved at six months after just three treatments.

Micro-channels trigger the skin's wound-healing cascade: inflammation, proliferation and remodelling. In the remodelling phase, new collagen and elastin are laid down to fill and soften depressed scars from below.

Because the epidermis is spared — the needles pass through without removing it — the risk of post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation is lower than with ablative treatments, making SkinPen suitable across all skin tones.

Evidence — FDA-cleared, clinical trial proven
  • Pivotal trial (NCT02646917): 90% patient-rated improvement in acne scarring at 6 months after 3 treatments.
  • Histology confirms new collagen deposition in the papillary dermis; results continue to improve as collagen matures.
SkinPen FDA De Novo DEN160029; pivotal trial NCT02646917.
What to expect
  • Sessions: Usually 3, spaced 4–6 weeks apart.
  • Downtime: 1–3 days of redness and mild swelling.
  • Timeline: Improvement builds over months as new collagen matures.

Fine Lines & Wrinkles

Good evidence

How micro-injury rebuilds the collagen scaffold

SkinPen stimulates fresh collagen and elastin in the dermis, gradually thickening and firming the skin so fine lines soften from within.

Lines deepen as the dermal scaffold thins with age. The controlled micro-injury triggers fibroblasts to rebuild collagen, restoring skin structure over time.

It improves the skin itself rather than relaxing muscle movement, so it works alongside — rather than instead of — wrinkle-relaxing treatments.

Evidence — What the research shows
  • Clinical reviews support microneedling for fine-line improvement through collagen induction across a range of skin types.
Microneedling collagen-induction literature.
What to expect
  • Sessions: Usually 3, tailored to your skin.
  • Downtime: Mild redness settling within 1–3 days.
  • Timeline: Gradual smoothing over weeks to months.

Skin Texture & Tone

Good evidence

How collagen renewal refines the surface

By rebuilding the dermal scaffold, SkinPen improves overall skin texture and tone — smoothing roughness and supporting a more even, radiant surface.

Micro-channels trigger renewal throughout the treated area, gradually improving skin quality and surface consistency.

Results compound over a course, with skin becoming progressively smoother and more refined.

Evidence — What the research shows
  • Microneedling clinical literature supports improvement in skin texture and surface quality over a course.
Microneedling texture and tone literature.
What to expect
  • Sessions: Usually 3.
  • Downtime: Minimal — redness resolves within days.
  • Timeline: Progressive improvement over the course.

Enlarged Pores

Good evidence

How firming the dermis refines pore appearance

SkinPen firms the dermis around pores, making them appear smaller and skin feel smoother. It doesn't change pore structure permanently, but consistent results are maintained with a course.

Pores appear enlarged when the surrounding skin loses firmness. Collagen renewal tightens the skin around them, improving their appearance progressively.

Evidence — What the research shows
  • Microneedling is well supported for pore refinement through dermal firming.
Microneedling pore-refinement literature.
What to expect
  • Sessions: Usually 3.
  • Downtime: Minimal.
  • Timeline: Gradual refinement over the course.

Stretch Marks

Good evidence

How micro-injury remodels stretch-mark tissue

SkinPen stimulates collagen in stretch-marked skin, improving texture and fading the appearance of stretch marks over a course.

Stretch marks form when the dermis tears under rapid stretching. Microneedling's repair cascade rebuilds collagen in the affected area, gradually improving texture and reducing the visual contrast.

Results are best on newer, still-pink stretch marks; mature silver marks improve more slowly.

Evidence — What the research shows
  • Microneedling has good evidence for improving stretch-mark appearance, particularly in the active (red/pink) phase.
Microneedling stretch-mark literature.
What to expect
  • Sessions: Often 4–6 sessions for best results.
  • Downtime: Minimal.
  • Timeline: Gradual improvement; older marks take longer.

Pigmentation & Dark Spots

Good evidence

How renewed skin gradually lifts uneven tone

SkinPen accelerates cell turnover and builds fresh, evenly pigmented skin, helping to fade post-inflammatory marks and uneven tone.

⚠ Melasma needs careful individual assessment before treatment. We always review your skin and history first.

As the skin renews, pigmented cells are replaced more quickly with healthier, more evenly pigmented ones, gradually improving tone.

For melasma (heat- and hormonally-triggered pigmentation), we use SkinPen with care — consultation always comes first to assess risk.

Evidence — What the research shows
  • Microneedling has supportive evidence for pigmentation improvement; melasma requires individual assessment as it can be provoked by heat or irritation.
Microneedling pigmentation literature; melasma guidance.
What to expect
  • Sessions: Usually 3–4, with careful assessment for pigmentation-prone skin.
  • Downtime: Minimal; redness resolves within 1–3 days.
  • Timeline: Gradual brightening over the course; sun protection is essential.

Surgical & Mature Scars

Good evidence

How micro-injury softens established scar tissue

SkinPen can improve the texture and appearance of mature surgical scars by stimulating fresh collagen within the scar tissue.

⚠ Keloid-prone skin needs individual assessment. We always review your scar history before treating.

Scar tissue is structurally different from normal skin. Microneedling disrupts the dense collagen of the scar and stimulates more organised renewal.

Results are best on stable, fully healed scars (typically 12+ months old). We always assess individual suitability first.

Evidence — What the research shows
  • Microneedling has good evidence for improving the texture and appearance of hypertrophic and atrophic surgical scars; keloid-prone skin is assessed individually.
Microneedling scar-remodelling literature.
What to expect
  • Sessions: Usually 3, tailored to the scar.
  • Downtime: Minimal.
  • Timeline: Gradual softening over months.

Overall Skin Quality

Good evidence

A 2024 review of 70 studies confirms broad skin-quality benefits

Across 70 studies reviewed in 2024, microneedling consistently improved overall skin quality — firmness, radiance, texture and tone — making it one of the best-evidenced collagen-induction approaches available.

The breadth of evidence reflects how fundamental the wound-healing cascade is to skin renewal. SkinPen initiates that cascade precisely, every session.

Results are cumulative: each treatment builds on the last, with the skin continuing to improve as collagen matures between sessions.

Evidence — 2024 narrative review
  • A 2024 narrative review of 70 microneedling studies confirmed consistent improvements in overall skin quality across a broad range of concerns and skin types.
Microneedling narrative review, 2024.
What to expect
  • Sessions: A course for best results; maintenance helps sustain them.
  • Downtime: Minimal.
  • Timeline: Cumulative improvement over the course; continues as collagen matures.
Before treatment

Preparing your skin

SkinPen needs a little preparation to give your skin the best chance to respond well and heal smoothly.

FirstYour history

Tell us about you

  • Any history of cold sores, keloid scarring or skin conditions.
  • Current medications, including blood thinners or supplements.
  • Recent use of Roaccutane (isotretinoin) — we need to know.
  • Any recent injectables or active breakouts in the treatment area.
1 week beforeEase off the actives

Pause these for about a week

  • Stop retinoids and exfoliating acids for approximately one week.
  • Avoid sunburn and stop all tanning on the area.
  • Don't wax the treatment area beforehand.
The dayArrive fresh

Come with clean skin

  • Arrive with clean, product-free skin — we'll cleanse if needed.
  • Stay well hydrated; comfortable skin heals better.
  • Avoid alcohol and blood-thinning supplements the evening before.
Cold sore history matters

If you have a history of cold sores (oral herpes), please tell us — microneedling can trigger an outbreak in the treated area. We can arrange antiviral cover to keep you protected.

After treatment

Caring for your skin

Your skin has been through a precise controlled renewal. Keeping it calm, clean and protected for the first few days gives the best result.

The golden rules
  • Keep skin clean and gentle — no scrubs, actives or harsh products for the first few days.
  • Expect 1–3 days of redness, warmth and mild swelling — this is normal.
  • Avoid exercise, saunas and swimming for 24–48 hours.
  • Wear daily SPF — renewing skin is particularly vulnerable to sun damage.
  • Don't pick or scratch — let the skin shed naturally.
  • Reintroduce retinoids and acids only when advised, usually after about a week.
  • Stay hydrated to support collagen renewal.
Important information

Is it right for you?

SkinPen suits most people seeking skin renewal, but a few situations need discussing first. Nothing here automatically rules you out — it guides the conversation at consultation.

Not suitable

When SkinPen can't go ahead

For your safety, treatment isn't possible in these situations.

  • Pregnancy or breastfeeding
  • Active skin infection, cold sore or breakout in the treatment area
  • Active, inflamed acne in the area
  • Roaccutane (isotretinoin) within the last 6 months
  • A current cancer diagnosis or treatment
  • Certain skin conditions in active flare (eczema, psoriasis) in the area
Discuss first

Conditions we'll talk through

These don't necessarily prevent treatment, but we need to know.

  • A history of keloid or raised scarring
  • A tendency to cold sores (we can arrange antiviral cover)
  • Melasma or easily provoked pigmentation
  • Bleeding disorders or blood thinners
  • Diabetes or impaired healing
  • Auto-immune conditions
Manage beforehand

Sort these before your appointment

Easily managed with a little planning.

  • Pause retinoids and acids for about a week
  • No sun exposure or tanning beforehand
  • Avoid waxing the treatment area
  • Arrive with clean, make-up-free skin

This is a guide to help you prepare — it isn't a diagnosis, and it isn't exhaustive. Your full history is always reviewed at consultation.

Begin with a consultation

Every SkinPen protocol begins with a proper assessment of your skin, so we can tailor needle depth, spacing and the number of sessions to your goals.

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